Why's My FICO(Fair Isaac) Score Lower Than My Credit Score?

FICO scores and VantageScore appear as separate numbers on the same credit file, each using its own formula.

FICO draws from the three bureaus (Equifax, Experian, TransUnion) and weighs payment history, amounts owed, length of credit history, new credit, and mix of credit types; newer versions (FICO 10, 10T) give extra credit for recent positive activity and adjust for trended data. The score range stays 300‑850, and most lenders request a specific version, so the same file can show a 720 FICO 10 from Experian and a 735 FICO 10T from TransUnion.

VantageScore also uses the three bureaus but applies different weightings - more emphasis on recent payment behavior, less on length of credit history, and it treats medical collections and paid‑off accounts more leniently. The current VantageScore 4.0 uses the same 300‑850 range but updates every 30 days, so the same file might display a 695 VantageScore 4.0 while the FICO number stays higher. This explains why the two scores can diverge on one report, a point we'll unpack further when you check which FICO version your lender uses.

Lenders each run a specific FICO version, so you must identify which one they're using to explain score gaps.

1. Open any pre‑approval or loan offer letter; it usually states the exact version, such as 'FICO Score 8' or 'FICO 10T'.
2. Call the lender's underwriting or customer‑service line and ask, 'Which FICO version do you use for this product?'
3. Visit the lender's website; most banks and credit‑card issuers list the FICO version for each loan type in their FAQ or underwriting guidelines.
4. Log into your credit‑monitoring dashboard (e.g., Credit Karma, Experian); many platforms tag the displayed score with its version.
5. For mortgages, review the closing disclosure or ask your mortgage broker - conventional loans often still use FICO 2, 4, or 5, while newer programs may use FICO 9, 10 or 10T.

For a full list of current FICO versions, see the FICO score versions guide.

Pull each bureau's latest credit report and note the FICO score that appears for that agency.

• Log into Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion portals (or use a free‑annual‑report site) and download the full report; the FICO score, if provided, sits near the summary page.
• Record the numeric value, the FICO version (e.g., 8, 9, or 10), and the date it was generated; versions differ because lenders may receive a different model from each bureau.
• Compare the three numbers side‑by‑side; a spread of 5‑10 points is common, larger gaps often signal reporting delays or data mismatches you'll explore in the next section.
• If a bureau does not show a FICO score, request one directly from that agency's 'FICO Score® service' page (Equifax FICO Score service, Experian FICO Score offering, TransUnion FICO Score details).
• Use the compiled table to identify which bureau is pulling the lowest score; that will guide the 'reporting delays' and 'utilization crushes' sections that follow.

Reporting delays lower your FICO when a creditor files updates late or only to one of the three bureaus, leaving a stale balance or missed‑payment on your Equifax, Experian, or TransUnion file. FICO recalculates monthly based on the newest data each bureau holds, so any lag can drag the score down even if you're current elsewhere.

Spot the lag by pulling the free monthly reports from each bureau and noting discrepancies in payment dates or balances; a 30‑day gap often signals a delay. Call the creditor and request a 're‑report' to all bureaus, then monitor the next FICO update. Once you've cleared stale data, you can move on to targeting high‑utilization accounts that crush your FICO.

Accounts that sit near their credit‑limit thresholds are the main culprits when your FICO score lags behind your overall credit score. Spotting those revolving balances lets you cut the utilization penalty fast.

• Pull the latest statements from every credit‑card, personal line, and HELOC; record each balance and its total credit limit.
• Calculate the utilization ratio for each account (balance ÷ limit × 100) and flag any that exceed 30 % - the threshold where most FICO models start to ding you.
• Compare the ratios across Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion; a single bureau reporting a higher balance can pull the whole score down.
• Pay down or move the balance on the highest‑utilization card before the statement closing date, so the lower figure lands on all three reports.
• Request a credit‑limit increase on cards with low limits but good payment history; a higher limit instantly improves the ratio without extra spending.

Collections and medical debt sit in the public‑records portion of your Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion files; the FICO score penalizes any unpaid collection as a breach of payment history, immediately lowering the score across all three bureaus.

For example, a $500 charge that lands in collections on your TransUnion report can shave 30 - 40 points from a 720 FICO. A medical bill that ages 180 days before becoming a collection triggers a smaller hit, often 20 - 30 points, but the penalty disappears once the debt is paid and the entry is removed.

Under FICO 9 and newer versions, a paid collection no longer drags down the score, which explains why the same account may affect older FICO models but not the latest ones. This distinction sets the stage for the next section on stopping authorized‑user or closed accounts from hurting your FICO.

Authorized‑user slots and closed cards can drag your FICO score down if they carry high balances, late payments, or simply sit as inactive records on the Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion files.

• Pull the latest reports from all three bureaus and flag every authorized‑user line and every closed account older than five years.
• Call the lender that added the authorized user. Ask them to remove the AU designation if the primary account has any negative history or if you no longer need the credit boost.
• If the lender refuses, file a dispute with each bureau, attaching a copy of the lender's response and a note that the AU is not beneficial to your credit profile.
• For closed accounts that still show a balance or a recent delinquency, request a 'pay for delete' or a goodwill adjustment, then follow up with a bureau dispute to delete the negative entry once it's corrected.
• When a closed account is older than ten years (or seven years for most negatives), verify that it has been automatically removed; if not, submit a removal request citing the Fair Credit Reporting Act.

Cleaning up unnecessary authorized users and outdated closed accounts clears the noise that newer FICO versions (8, 9, 10) weigh heavily, letting the remaining positive data drive a higher score. Consumer Financial Protection Bureau guide on authorized users

If identity theft or bogus tradelines are dragging your FICO down, you can stop the bleed in four quick actions.

1. Contact all three bureaus (Equifax, Experian, TransUnion) to place a fraud alert or credit freeze. A fraud alert forces lenders to verify your identity before opening new accounts, while a freeze blocks any new inquiries outright. For step‑by‑step guidance, see how to place a fraud alert.
2. File an identity‑theft report with the FTC and obtain a police report if possible. The report gives you a documented reference when disputing fraudulent items and may speed up removal.
3. Dispute every unauthorized account or suspicious tradeline online or by certified mail. Include the police report, a copy of your ID, and a clear statement that the entry is fraudulent. The bureaus have 30 days to investigate and must delete unverifiable entries.
4. Reach out directly to the creditor that listed the fake tradeline. Request proof of the account's legitimacy; most legitimate lenders cannot produce documentation for paid‑for 'boost' tradelines and will remove them. Once the bureaus confirm deletion, monitor your credit for any reappearances and keep your fraud alert active for at least a year.

These steps isolate the theft, erase the false tradelines, and let your FICO rebound without waiting for unrelated factors discussed earlier.

A thin or aged credit file drags down your FICO because the model needs a mix of recent activity and a seasoned payment history; with only one or two accounts, or decades of dormant accounts, the algorithm treats the profile as risky.

Add fresh, positive tradelines that report to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion: open a secured credit card with a modest limit, become an authorized user on a spouse's 10‑year account, or take a $500 credit‑builder loan from a credit union; pay each balance in full and on time to generate reliable data.

Let the new accounts age for six to twelve months, then pull each bureau's report; once the activity shows, your FICO will begin to rise, setting the stage for the six tactical moves that follow.

Boost your FICO fast by focusing on five proven levers.

• Pay down revolving balances to keep utilization under 30 % on all three bureaus; the next reporting cycle will show the lower ratios, as we covered in 'target accounts where utilization crushes your FICO.'.
• Dispute inaccurate tradelines; allow up to 30 days for verification - removing a false late or charge‑off can raise the score noticeably.
• Request a goodwill deletion for a single missed payment from a creditor that has seen 12 months of on‑time history.
• Become an authorized user on a relative's low‑balance, long‑standing credit‑card that reports to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion; the added positive line improves both age of credit and utilization.
• Ask your mortgage lender about rapid rescoring; it costs a fee, applies only to qualifying loan applications, and can reflect recent balance cuts within a few weeks.